Characteristics of Southeastern Peruvian Transportation Systems
Over the past week, the fearless expedition colleagues and I traversed the southeastern region of Peru from Cuzco, to Juilaca, Puno, Lake Titicaca, Arequipa, Chivay, and then back to Arequipa, and eventually back to Cuzco (yesterday 11/5). Along the way we scientifically experimented with various forms of transport, and the following is one attempt at describing them.
1. Train
PeruRail, Capacity 300? (Cuzco to Puno through Juliaca (9 hours)
Pros: Inexpensive, Direct, Clean, Comfortable, Safe passage across moutain pass, Provides great views
Cons: Environmentally harmful, Slow, Unable to stop more than once or twice, Luggage check for backpackers is not completely understood, Arrival in Puno can be chaotic
Last Monday, October 30, we arrived in the city of Puno and checked into La Joya de Titicaca. We ate traditonal fare includin guinea pig, alpaca. ceviche, and pisco sours. Pictures of some of this fare can be found below. Bueno. The following day we toured the Sillustani burial remains northeast of Puno. The remains (chullpas) on these hallowed ground date back to pre-Incan time, but also contains more modern burial sites. These pictures can also be found below. Then we headed back to Puno and saw that the streets were alive in parade form for the Puno Days celebration. It also happened to be Halloween. There were many children in the steets dressed as Disney characters alongside their parents who weren´t dressed up. The idea of seeing families together, during all hours of the day, is now a recurring welcome theme that I have adjusted to in Peru.
2. Boat
Puno Charter, Capacity 30 (Puno to Isla Flotantes, Isla Amantani, Isla Taquile, and back to Puno)
Pros: Only Reasonable way to get to Lake Titicaca islands, Nice vistas, Unordinary method of transport for Denverite
Cons: Multiple stenches, Driver sleeps often, Slow, Maximum speed 30 m.p.h., Often at overcapacity
The trip to 3 islands of Lake Titicaca is one I won´t soon forget. The boat ride was fun, albeit slow, and the boat ride back on the following day was a bit draggish. We first arrived at Isla Flotantes, which is a colony if you will, of several floating islands made of reed from the lake. The largest island is big and old enough to support plant life and a few modern convienences such as a resturant and store. The people here seemed reliant on tourists, but still able to continue their ideals. The boats they use to commute are also made of reed and continue to rot every three months, and they have overfished the surrounding waters, said our guide. A marine biologist could do wonders here. We then floated out to Isle Amantani where we were immediately grabbed up by a host family (nancy and her daughter elizabeth) and taken to their house, above a soccer court about halfway up the island. Amazing views and our room was perfect for relaxing. An evening hike up to Pachepapa (the top of the island 1000 ft above the water) and a mysterious dance party insued after getting our bearings. The pictures Derek has taken tell the entire story. We also ate meals that Nancy cooked that were very basic yet flavorful. Potatoes, goat cheese, rice, and celery soup. We brought her sugar, fruit, and pens for her daughter from the mainland, in return for her hospitaility. The next morning we had breakfest of caramel crepes and then were escorted by Nancy back to the boat, where we headed for our final island, Tequile, about an hour away. Isle Taquile is inhabited by quechua speaking people, who have isolated themselves from the the mainlanders, and have opened themselves up for visting tourists. They also have somewhat of set price system for all the goods they produce, and all the residents of the island share in the profits. We ate trucha (trout) for lunch and wandered about the island before heading back to Puno on a 3 hour boat ride.
3. Bus
Julsa Angeles Tours SAC Bus capacity 45 (Puno to Arequipa through Juliaca)
Pros: Convienent in the fact that there are many buses leaving at all hours, Fast (40-60 m.p.h)
Cons: Stench, Belittleing drunks, Multiple stops in questionable neighborhoods, Police/Agricultural searches on major highway, Freezing cold during high elevation strectches (Questionable heating)
Riding the bus to Arequipa from Puno was a great experience. We departed Puno around 7 pm and arrived in Arequipa at 1:30 AM before checking into Los Balcones de Santa Cataline hotel in Arequipa. Amidst lots of interupted sleep, the views out the window were of a lunar like landscape. The Andes are so foreign to me, not just in name and place, but in their structure. I admit I am more familiar familiar with simpler mountain geography, the Appalachian´s or Rocky´s, where the mountains seem to be laid out in north-south or east-west contiguous lines. The Andes, as far as I can tell, know no simple form and are very erratic. Volcanoes and fault lines also come into play. Maybe a bit more like the mountains in California.
4. Cabs
Each city in Peru has its own fashion of cabs - some are bike cabs, some really compact cars, some station wagons, etc..usually of Japanese brand
Pros: Conveinent, Cheap for short distances, Creative, Fun
Cons: Price has to be negotiated beforehand, Cannot be used for long distances (economically unfeasable)
Taking Cabs in Peru is like purchasing one ticket at the local state fair. You know the one that has set up shop near your home with almost no regulation. You know its going to be a bumpy crazy ride and sometimes you get more out of it than you paid for.
5. Airplane
Lan Peru AirBus, Capacity 180+ (Arequipa to Cuzco)
Pros: Fast, Relatively Cheap, Fashionable, Good mints
Cons: Early airport arrival is necessary due to adverse flying conditions at major airports, Baggage checking/pickup headaches, Exit taxes
Not to much to write about here, other than it is always nice to travel by air, only after experiencing the other forms of transport.
This inane journal entry takes us from Cuzco and back to, where we arrived yesterday in anticipation of a 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. I will have to write more about the Arequipa and Colca Canyon adventures we had last weekend, maybe after consuming the 4 day epic. Our current schedule has us back to Cuzco on Saturday, Lima on Sunday, and Denver on Monday. New pictures from Arequipa and Colca Canyon will follow this entry.
